Jointer

So, I got money for christmas to get tools. The one I need most is a jointer.

First, a little background. A jointer is similar to a planer, in that it has wide flat blades that take small amounts of wood off of one face or edge of a board. It’s used to either joint or face-plane a board. Jointing is getting a perfectly straight edge that is also some specific angle (usually 90 degrees) from a face. Face-planing is getting a perfectly flat face, optionally at a specific angle (usually 90 degrees) from an edge. A planer, technically a thinckness planer, cannot do either of these, because it makes one face parallel to the opposite face, which may not be flat. The ultimate goal is to use a combination of face-planing, jointing, and thickness planing to get a board that is perfectly rectangular in cross section, has perfectly straight edges, has perfectly flat faces, and has a specific thickness and width. Boards such as this are extremely important in furnature making, because you can no longer buy boards wide enough for the fields of furnature (doors, table-tops, desktops, etc.). Instead several boards need to be edge-glued to form wider boards. The edges of these boards need to be absolutely straight and square, and the thickness of these boards must be the same on all of them, or the result will not work.

Anyway, I need a jointer. This poses several problems.

First, there are three distinct classes of jointers: benchtop el-cheapo models, midrange floor models, and professional modles.

  • We can leave out the professional models right away, because they generally run over $1000 (sometimes much more), which is way out of my price range. And, they’re generally overkill for my needs, as I’m not a professional.
  • The benchtop models are cheap ($150-$250), but are very small, and generally really low quality. For example, they almost all have aluminum fences, rather than the cast iron that’s on higher end jointers, and so the fence can flex when you’re jointing a board, resulting in a bad joint. In addition, the tables on the benchtop models are generally quite short (20″ to 25″), and this makes jointing longer stock very hard, as the stock tends to tilt. Finally, the benchtop models universally have two cutter heads, rather than the three that higher end models have, and so must spin faster (~8000 RPM rather than ~5000 RPM). This results in a slighly lower quality joint, and a lot more noise and vibration. But, they’re cheap, and they might be good enough for the kind of weekend warrior stuff I plan on doing.
  • The midrange, floor models are priced *gasp* in the middle. They’re generally $450 – $650. They universally have longer tables (45″-60″), and have cast iron tables and fences. They universally have three cutter heads. They’re universally big and heavy. But, they’re capable of doing anything I might want them to do, and doing it well.

The second problem is that there has been a noticable decline in the quality of tools over the past couple of years. Tools are mostly being mass-produced in Taiwan, with much lower quality parts and worse quality control. This goes mostly across the board for tools in my price range, and is universal in the low-end benchtop set.

One possible solution to this whole mess is to buy a used jointer. I could possibly get a reasonable deal on a mid-range jointer, and get the higer quality construction of a few years ago. This looks like an ideal solution, but has several problems of it’s own. The largest is that there’s no way to guarantee I’ll ever find such a deal. Jointers are sold used only rarely, and are almost always pick-up only (or the cost of shipping is so high that it makes them more expensive than a good new one). This means that I have to find one for sale in the general local area, and such items are quite rare. Then, of course, I have to get it home. Jointers are big. They’re generally 45″-60″ by 4 feet, and 200 lbs. or so. This basically means some kind of truck, which I don’t have. That means renting one, most likely, or at least a trailer. More expense. If I buy a new one, it’ll come disassembled (if I buy locally), or be shipped (if I buy on Amazon), so I don’t have to worry about picking it up.

So, the big question is, do I buy the cheap, benchtop version, and risk it being inadequate? If it works, I’ll have saved a considerable amount of time and hassle, and a fair amount of space in my shop. Or, do I buy a new midrange? It’s expensive, but it’ll be shipped, and should work fine. Or, do I wait, and hope for a local sale of a good jointer? I still haven’t decided. I guess first I’ll go to the various stores that sell them locally and look at and touch the ones they have. That might help me decide.

3 Responses to “Jointer”

  1. Out of curiousity, have you looked at Craftsman at all? I know that they are now doing electrical tools, but don’t know what all they have going. I do know, however, that my dad loves his Craftsman table saw, and they do still have that lovely lifetime warrenty….

  2. Yes, I’ve looked at Craftsman. My current leader for the benchtop is a Craftsman. My current leader for the floor model is a Rigid, which is the brand by the company that used to make Craftsman. It’s way better than the floor model Craftsman, and cheaper too. I’m kinda thinking that I’ll wait a month or so and see if any used jointers turn up, and if not, I’ll just buy one.

  3. (I realize this blog post is old, but I’ll reply anyway)

    Meg – the Craftsman lifetime warranty applies ONLY to non-power hand tools. Wrenches, sockets, screwdrivers, shovels, hammers… It DOES NOT apply to power tools.

    This has always been a beef I’ve had with Sears because early on, I bought a number of Craftsman power tools on the understanding that the craftsman warranty applied to everything they sold that was Craftsman (versus “Sears best”).

    That said, all three of my tablsaws are Craftsman (cast iron models – one from the 50′s, another from the 70′s, and one I bought 3 years ago new), my 6″ jointer (somewhere between benchtop and mid-range — it has a 36″ deck and is on a floor stand (but not a big Rockwell type enclosed cabinet) is a Crasftman. I have a Craftsman 1/2″ drill and a circular saw, then the rest of my tools are Bosch, Delta, Dewalt, Porter Cable, and Rigid.

    My jointer is a CraigsList special – I picked it up for free from some chap in town a couple of years back. It needed some adjustment, plus fabrication of a new cutter guard (the original was missing, but they’re easy enough to make). The guy didn’t have room for it in his garage anymore, whereas I have a barn workshop.

    Yes, having access to a truck or trailer is very handy — I had a pickup at the time, though now have a Suburban and a couple of large trailers, so picking something up like that is fairly easy. Find a friend or neighbour who has a truck that can give you a lift (and a hand) when you find a big tool. Talk to the friend before you go looking, so you know you have a likely ride before you negotiate a purchase from someone.

    Getting a second hand tool is fraught with issues — often they’re not well cared for (perhaps why the original owner is selling it), or they’ve just gotten tired or something broke (I got a tablesaw whose motor was duff – then later, picked up a small (7″) tablesaw with a new 1.5HP motor on it for cheap, just so I could scavenge the motor for the full size tablesaw), but if you’re a DIY kind of person, handy with tools, and have some patience, you can put an old tool back into service fairly easy.

    As it happens, I came across your page because I was looking for info on cutter head disassembly (full removal from the deck) so that I could strip it down and clean some rust that’s been on it since I bought it. The blade wedges didn’t want to free up when I removed the gib lock screws. Just finished putting it all back together and adjusting the knives.

    As for deck length – with careful adjustment, you can use roller stands to provide some extension of the deck, reducing the tendancy for tipping the stock. Not the same as a long cast iron infeed and outfeed deck, but if you have some stock that’s bigger than your jointer will support, a couple of adjustable roller stands are a good idea.

    Another problem with the big professional ones: the really nice ones often run on 3-phase power, which isn’t generally available in the home shop. If you want sweetness, check out the 16″ Powermatic jointer…

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